Travelling to Kenya always seemed a distant, thrilling dream. Galloping zebras, majestic elephants and lazy lions a few feet away from my safari jeep – the warm sun departing the sky as I sip a local wine in a pop-up camp in the middle of a national park, experiencing a “sundowner” – watching Maasai perform their traditional dances – surrounded by new friends as we dance our hearts out on soft golden beaches under stars. These were far-fetched imaginings…until my recent trip to Kenya, where they became some of my most beloved memories, even that night I thought I’d be eaten by a hippo.

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This African country is a magical place earning its right on top of your travel bucketlist. Travelling throughout Kenya by car, train or charter plane to experience your own adventures is easy, safe and more affordable than ever.

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Nairobi

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I arrived in Nairobi from Jomo Kenyatta International Airport at night,

exhausted from a 24-hour travel day (three connections plus layovers),

but thrilled to be on the other side of the world beginning my adventure.

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I stayed at Sarova Stanley Hotel in the city, a 20 minute drive from the

airport and Nairobi’s first luxury hotel in 1902. Its heritage is preserved

and celebrated; each suite named after a significant person or place in

the hotel’s history, old photographs sprinkling the lobby.

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I tackled Nairobi in the morning: a busy metropolis of people and

speeding cars, similar to American cities, with its billboards, towering

buildings and rush of everyone present.

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However, what stood out was the crowd of pedestrians in their bright,

traditionally-patterned clothing. Vibrant colours blended together

crawling at a steady pace, like moving artwork, only broken up by the

grey or black of business suits. A people-watcher’s dream.

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Nairobi has plenty of day excursions like feeding giraffes at the

Giraffe Centre, walking alongside hairy baby elephants at David

Sheldrick Wildlife Trust/Elephant Orphanage and sparking romantic

memories of the movie Out of Africa by visiting the Karen Blixen Museum.

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I fed the friendly giraffes at the centre, but also got smooched by one.

Yes, I kissed a giraffe. It’s intimidating once you notice their head size

(six times the size of ours), but the guides explain the safety precautions.

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This intimate, unique interaction makes it a popular tourist destination in

Kenya. Funds from gift shop and teahouse sales and the entrance fee

(1000 Kshs) go toward offering conservation education to Kenyan youth for free.

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Amboseli

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My half hour flight, from Nairobi’s Wilson airport to Amboseli, was in the tiniest plane. However, any nervousness I had vanished at the sight of my first plains game. Packs of buffalo and zebra galloped close below our aircraft as we flew above Amboseli National Park. My welcoming to Kenya’s “countryside” couldn’t have been better orchestrated.

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We were greeted on the runway by safari jeeps and brought to eco-friendly Amboseli Serena Safari Lodge, which enjoys a privileged spot beside a main watering hole attracting huge numbers of gazelle, buffalo, hippo and elephant in the lodge’s backyard. Golden savannah plains and Africa’s highest mountain, Mount Kilimanjaro, can be seen from the lodge but best enjoyed at the prehistoric site Observation Hill at sunset, while local Maasai perform their dances. Observation Hill provides a 360 degree, birds-eye view of the park with unbelievable detail. This excursion, usually after a safari, is arranged by the lodge and is a proper sundowner.

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Amboseli Serena’s décor reflects brilliant, iconic colours and shapes representative of Maasai with hand-painted wall frescos in each room. They offer bush breakfasts and dinners, visits to Maasai villages and tree-planting programs.

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Tsavo East

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Galdessa in Tsavo East National Park was the most memorable place I’ve stayed in all my travels. It’s a long drive from Amboseli, worth it for the peaceful remoteness, the few guests, the staff’s dedication to service, the scenery and game sightings - all contributing to the overall Galdessa experience.

Upon entering Galdessa, I was welcomed by a lazy elephant wandering through camp 20 feet from me.

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This is common as it’s a “fences down” camp in the middle of the national park, free to the wildlife and Galana river banks. No electric fences. An escort is needed during evening hours to and from your tented accommodations, equipped with everything you’d need including a bucket shower to wash off dust. The thatched, semi-tented luxury bungalows are on wooden platforms with an en-suite bathroom and private veranda, overlooking the river filled with crocodiles and hippos.

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Thoughts of my zippered door and netted windows kept me awake all night as a hippo groaned, approaching my tent from the river. I held my flashlight to my chest - three fingers wrapped around the safety whistle attached - as each bunch of twigs cracked beside where I laid in bed. My heart thumping through my ears as the hippo’s noises loudly continued. The emergency whistle, as staff explained upon arrival, alerted the askari walking the grounds keeping everyone safe. I eventually fell asleep holding my whistle and had the best stories to tell afterward of my now-funny experience.

I’d do it again without hesitation.

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After the night before, I thoroughly enjoyed my morning coffee served on my terrace as I watched wildlife lounge in the river, birds singing around me, visited by a vervet monkey or two. Galdessa is heaven.

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Watamu

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After over five hours by road (mostly bumpy and unpaved), I was thrilled to be at Medina Palms; a luxurious resort offering competitive prices considering it’s the number two hotel in all of Kenya as rated by TripAdvisor.

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                                                                                                                                         The hotel’s lavishly spacious one to three bedroom suites feature kitchens,                                                                                                                                               living rooms and personal verandas or rooftop terraces with private plunge                                                                                                                                             pools. Three to four bedroom beachfront villas are also available.

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                                                                                                                                          Medina Palms’ extravagant garden area of palms and flora have                                                                                                                                                                 comfortable seating areas and numerous pools. Gourmet meals are served                                                                                                                                             in the open-air restaurant or in lush gardens. I observed a couple one                                                                                                                                                        evening enjoying their “garden dinner”, surrounded by tiny lights and soft                                                                                                                                               music with food, fresh flowers and a bottle of bubbly: a romantic evening                                                                                                                                                  trumping all others.

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                                                                                                                                        The hotel is set on Watamu, one of the world’s top ten beaches on Kenya’s                                                                                                                                               Indian Ocean coast. Snorkel among the shallow coral gardens or try a more                                                                                                                                            extreme water activity by Tribe Water Sports, based on-site at Medina Palms.

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                                                                                                                                       Watamu Turtle Watch/Local Ocean Trust and the archaeological site of Gede                                                                                                                                           Ruins are both nearby.  

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Diani Beach

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A three hour drive from Watamu (crossing Likoni channel to Ukunda by ferry), brought me to Diani Beach. My first steps on the famous beach were during a pink-purple sunset carrying itself above the turquoise-blue water, the cool breeze kissing my shoulders as my toes stayed cozy in the warm ocean.

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Diani Beach is a paradise of soft, white sand and palm trees 10 kilometers long, known for plentiful coral reefs and black and white colobus monkeys.

I stayed at newly refurbished, reopened Jacaranda Indian Ocean Beach Resort, set in 29 acres of natural gardens, ancient baobab trees and palms, steps from the beach.

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The resort is stunning; rich Arabian décor, stark white with gold accents, its interiors speckled with antiques. Dine at Jacaranda on the pool-side Ocean Terrace offering all-day ala carte or on the Baobab Terrace by the ocean welcoming the sun rise or set.

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For best-priced, authentic souvenirs such as masks, paintings, woodcrafts, hand-made jewelry and clothing, shop with local people along the road and negotiate. The unwritten rule: prices can be halved but stay fair, as souvenirs are usually hand-crafted and possibly the only income for the person selling it to you.

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Ten minutes away is Ali Barbour’s Cave Restaurant, a must for occasions and a perfect way to spend your last evening in Kenya. Watch stars from your white cloth dining table through the large, natural opening in the coral cave’s roof, as candles light the restaurant’s lanterns helping to maintain the most romantic, exceptional dining experience. The restaurant opens every day from 7 p.m. Cuisine is international, made from seasonal ingredients and specializes in seafood.

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FINAL THOUGHTS?

 

Kenya is the most unbelievable, mysterious, satisfying destination.

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No matter what interests you, Kenya has it and is more than happy to offer it: the classics (safaris, sundowners), new adventure (stand-up paddle boarding with dolphins, kissing giraffes), environment and wildlife conservation at its finest (eco-award winners too), and a chance to meet locals. The most charming, smiley and courteous people in the world.

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The people I met here brought me back to reality and reminded me what’s truly important in life. They held my hand when walking beside me, offered to show me to my destination even if it made them late for theirs, they spoke about real issues with actual solutions, and we shared many laughs.

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Kenyans share a secret to happiness, genuine human connection and lively celebrated traditions. The human spirit is very much alive and well in Kenya, their warm-hearted joy like a contagious fever burning inside anyone who comes within arm’s reach.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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FINAL

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